Published January 29th, 2010

Eat Your Heart Out

Mark the day of love with a sweetheart of a meal at an original restaurant

By Mifi Purvis
Photography by Peter Markiw

We love to eat together. Breaking bread is a basic thing we do early in a relationship to attach ourselves more firmly to one another. And every Valentine's Day, the act is repeated by almost everyone lucky enough to be in love, whether it means sharing dessert and coffee, or splashing out on five courses. Here are two snug restaurants that provide couples with a delicious salute to love.

The Red Ox Inn

9420 91 St., 780-465-5727

The Red Ox has been an Edmonton icon since the late 1960s. But if you haven't visited in the last decade, it's time to rekindle the flame.

The old wooden sign outside is the same, but that's where the nostalgia ends. Now, co-owner Andrea Olson greets customers, while her husband, Frank, the chef and creative force behind the Ox's eclectic menu, runs the kitchen. The couple bought the place in 1996 when Andrea was a server there and Frank was its Big Rock Beer sales rep.

At first, the new owners maintained the venue's status quo as Frank learned the ropes. He was no stranger to the food service industry, but it was his first gig cooking. By 2005, the Olsons had completely redone the interior and the menu was similarly renovated.

The Red Ox's décor is the perfect backdrop to stage an intimate dinner. Conservatively elegant, the only art you'll see are three small portraits of the Olsons' children as you enter. The rest of the walls are white and - save for one mirror - blank. "We want you to concentrate on this," Andrea says, gesturing across the table to an imaginary dining partner, "and this," she says, her palms open, fingertips pointing downwards at the table in front of her where a plate would be.

Sitting beside her husband in one of the Ox's comfortable brown leather booths, Andrea mentions Frank's past as a metal sculptor. "Food is another medium," she says. One taste of the goat cheese salad ($11) and his artisanal craft is confirmed. It has rounds of creamy cheese served with almonds and bacon on a canvas of spinach. A sophisticated warm cranberry and port dressing unites it as something greater than the sum of its parts. 

After the salad, try the breast of duck ($34). It's juicy, grilled to medium-rare and served with prosciutto-wrapped fennel and a crispy risotto cake. The plate is finished with a balsamic cherry sauce. Knowledgeable servers can suggest the right wine from nearly 120 selections on the wine list.

For Valentine's Day, indulge in Frank's all-inclusive five-course menu (about $150).
"We feature some of the best dishes of the year," he says, "and things that we can't do during normal service. It's also an opportunity to create great food and wine matches."

Details for the Valentine's Day menu were still pending at press time, but last year, couples enjoyed a meal that included Napoleon of potato cake topped with smoked salmon, crème fraiche and caviar, served with Champagne Montaudon. A seafood tortellini with a delicate crab bisque was followed by the Ox's duck breast, served with Louis Latour Pinot Noir. Then a North African rack of lamb with braised lamb shoulder arrived, accompanied by an Australian cabernet from the aptly named Hill of Content. Dessert choices were also matched with great wines.

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