One fish, two fish, red fish ... no fish?
Perhaps if Dr. Seuss were alive to write a modern sequel to his cherished children's book, that would be its title. According to a paper published in 2006 by an international team of ecologists and economists, if humans maintain their current rate of consumption and methods of capture, "no fish" could be a reality by 2048. No fish - as in a complete collapse of the fisheries industry.
The prediction sounds extreme, almost apocalyptic, but the numbers tell the story: Compared to 1950s populations of large-fish species, which include cod, tuna and halibut, less than 10 per cent remain, according to a 2003 article in the scientific journal Nature.
Canadian consumers are beginning to react to the shocking research with a growing demand for sustainable seafood - meaning marine life that reproduces efficiently enough to meet consumer demands without the risk of depletion and is captured in a way that doesn't compromise the balance of its ecosystem. But given the dearth of regulation and protected ocean space (less than 0.6 per cent globally), it can be difficult for consumers, seafood stores and restaurants to navigate the murky waters of what is sustainable, especially in Edmonton. Knowing where your fish is imported from, how it is caught and if it was caught legally isn't easy in a city more than 1,000 kilometres from the nearest ocean.
"We are always concerned as to whether we should be handling species that are becoming endangered," says Hugh Weis, owner of BiCoastal Seafoods, which provides fish meat to restaurants, retailers and institutions. He adds, "I don't usually receive questions about where it was caught; [customers] just ask if we have the products." BiCoastal abides by regulations set by the Canada Food Inspection Agency, which mostly concern product quality and consumer safety.
Bryan Fallwell, owner of Billingsgate Fish Co. Limited, a century-old seafood market with outlets in Edmonton and Calgary, says he has noticed a growing demand among consumers. "Sustainability is a new craze," he says, noting that until recently "all people were mostly concerned about were the health benefits of seafood."
Neither BiCoastal nor Billingsgate follows a sustainable seafood guide. "We work on it on an individual basis," says Fallwell. "We are trying to incorporate as much sustainable seafood as possible, but there is a lot of public pressure to eat wild."
One local business, Ocean Odyssey Inland, is striving to provide ecologically sound sea-food. Fishmonger and store owner Pat Batten became interested in the sustainable fishing industry after an encounter with a Nanaimo fisherman who taught her about the harsh realities of the global industry. In 2001, she began selling ocean products at Greater Edmonton farmers' markets that were caught exclusively by Finest at Sea, an independent West Coast company that utilizes the least invasive catching methods possible - often without bait or barbs. Five years ago, Batten opened her west end outlet with the goal of selling seafood only from sustainable sources. "We do bring in some fish that are on the watch list, but we try to convince people not to buy those products," says Batten.
Post new comment